I found out about the BBC’s recent big story about Kerala when I was browsing in the Reliance World internet café below my office. One of my colleagues – a Malayali, same as 95% of the people who work in my Technopark office – came to me with a big grin on his face. “Hey, did you hear there was a story about Kerala in the BBC today?” I told him I hadn’t, but was quickly interested to know what it was about. Kerala in the news! Exciting! “Yeah,” he said, grin still fixed to his face. “It said that Kerala consumes the most alcohol in the whole of India!”
There it was on the BBC’s front page. ‘Kerala’s love affair with alcohol’ read the headline in bold type. I had expected an appreciation of the palm trees and backwaters seen in Incredible!ndia, or something equally charming and inoffensive, but this was an exposé of the state’s runaway drinking culture. Normally, when there is bad international press about your homeland, you tend to react with either shame, disgust, protest or a combination of the three. My colleague, however, seemed almost overjoyed to tell me that he and his fellow Malayalis were becoming world renowned for their drinking prowess. A typical reaction of a young male anywhere, I guess, but it neatly sums up the attitude here.
Many dichotomies can define a man here in Kerala, and chief among them is being either teetotaller or drinker. And if you drink, you drink. Indeed, it’s almost impossible to get away with a single quiet pint in the watering hole opposite Technopark. As a saip who fits into neither the teetotal nor the ‘drink to the maximum’ bracket, I’ve somehow learned enough tricks to avoid being plastered drunk for the long bus or train ride home after each drinking session with the boys.
Downing beer after beer (or brandy after brandy, as the BBC article accurately points out) isn’t so much a matter of individual pride as it is the only accepted and understood way to drink. Of course, it is more of a problem among the poor as they drink to forget their troubles, but my first-hand experience is with well-off salarymen for whom the influence of alcohol is just as much an escape as it is for those less fortunate. Example: office grudges are usually borne silently until there is a company party, where double figures of drinks are consumed, voices are raised and fists become an acceptable outlet for long-held rancour. For these men, often married with kids and earning a decent living, booze excuses any misbehaviour.
The BBC article draws attention to some interesting points, in particular the fact that the purchasing of liquor is fully controlled by the state government (officially, at least). If people are losing their jobs, beating their wives and killing themselves because of alcohol, and the government is completely in charge of said alcohol, shouldn’t the government take some responsibility and introduce some initiatives to promote intelligent consumption of liquor? Well, one thing stands in the way of that: money. Malayalis spend more on liquor than they do on rice (7500 crore per year versus 2800 crore), and every penny of profit goes into the pockets of the lawmakers. They have a vested interest in maintaining the somewhat ugly status quo, and so it will likely remain.
But who am I to judge? I love a cool Kingfisher on a hot afternoon after work, and there is no easier way to get to know someone better here than over a drink or three. I can’t judge the simple fact that people drink. What I can judge is the violence caused when people drink – to spouses, to friends, to familial stability, to oneself and to society at large. And I have to say that in Kerala, it’s not the drinking so much as how they’re drinking. Every time we go to the bar, another colleague’s words ring in my mind: “Every time I drink, I drink to the maximum. Otherwise I won’t drink.”
Barnaby Haszard Morris is a formerly Kerala-based writer who, having learned from Malayalis of the true importance of family, is now enjoying some time with his loved ones in NZ. He dearly misses daily masala dosas, Mallu friends and Mumbai (in that order) but hopes to get back to India soon. Follow him on Twitter: 
Peta Jinnath Andersen is a freelance and fiction writer. Born in Sydney, Australia, to a Fiji-Indian father and Scottish mother, she’s a bit confused about her background, but loves it all the same. Currently living in the US, she has just had her first child, and is busy studying hard in an effort to learn more about her Indian heritage – including taking Hindi lessons – so she can teach her son about just what it is that makes an NRI special.
on April 30, 2010
at 8:25 am
You sure he’s not just talking about a toast?
Maybe he never takes a sip unless he first raises his glass and says, “to The Maximum!”, presumably causing his drinking companions to raise their glasses and shout in unison, “The Maximum!”
on April 30, 2010
at 11:18 am
“Every I time I drink, I drink to the maximum. Otherwise I won’t drink.” — well that’s how sophomores in my college drink
… but by the time they get to the fourth year, they get wiser and drink judiciously and learn to enjoy the high rather than get wasted … hope the men (and women?) of Kerala get to the “fourth year of college” state of mind…
on April 30, 2010
at 7:14 pm
That’s a pretty accurate picture from a Malayali Saip..:) I think you caught the pulse right..The next ‘expose’ as you dubbed it needs to be of the growing number of psychiatrists in the state which are supposed to be the highest in India too – reasons? Highly educated unemployed young men with only ‘the Gelllf’( Gulf states) to escape too and when that too doesn’t happen, takes happily to downing copious amounts of alchohol to swallow down the frustration of conflicting life….
Cheers, from a Malayali whos been there and seen that…:)
on May 1, 2010
at 6:05 pm
Thankfully the malyali friends I have do not get abusive when they are drunk though yes they all say this one line before drinking “Every I time I drink, I drink to the maximum. Otherwise I won’t drink.”!!
on May 3, 2010
at 7:33 am
@g2 – yeah, reminds me of my own college days… I wonder if having better quality liquor would get people to want to enjoy it for its taste?
@Journomuse – ah, the Gelllf – the real Kerala, haha! I’m glad I struck the right note. Seems like lives are very conflicted here for many reasons.
@Nishant Singh – I too have never been abused by drunkards, but I’ve seen otherwise docile folk turn pretty vicious after a couple of brandies, like different people almost. All this isn’t to say it makes them bad people, though, I’ve met some fantastic guys here. Sure is hard to keep up, though.
on May 7, 2010
at 1:44 am
hehe.. from one Mallu to another, good post.. and totally accurate too
on May 20, 2010
at 6:05 am
thank goodness the malayalis can blame the “sarkar” for their drinking along with bad roads, bad politics, and worse prices. Just looks at mallu films – every single film I have seen so far has to have one drunk scene – and if you see them drink – I swear you’ll never touch alc again! just my pov! anyways, glad to have spotted your site. good job
on June 18, 2010
at 3:28 pm
Bang on target. Such things make me feel more embarrassed. Feel pitiful for the people who burn their hard earned money for buying a venom for themselves.
Keep Penning.
Rinzu
on June 21, 2010
at 6:55 am
Well,even when kerala is the number one liquor consuming state, not all the people drink.Those who drink,they spend lot of money on it.Its their choice.Well blame is on government for just thinking about burgeoning their wallet than the welfare of people.Well,i think maveli has to take birth again to make this state a perfect one without alcohol,sex raquets and hartals.Until then cheers.
on June 22, 2010
at 7:51 am
Thanks for the kind words Dr Roshan, Rajani and Rinzu. RRR!
Nithin, you at first seem to be espousing a libertarian ethic in which people require only the freedom to choose what they will or will not do… then condeming the government for their focus on cash rather than their constituents. If the people make choices which cause damage to themselves and their peers, should the government not to take some responsibility and seek to make a positive difference on the situation? Especially if they are encouraging said choices?
One way to make a difference is education, in the various forms it can take. Bring the DARE program to Kerala!
on June 27, 2010
at 6:33 am
Hey, me too a ‘Mallu’. Grew up in Kerala, but now living in Bangalore. I too have seen people in Kerala drink and get plastered. It sucks. I too, drink, but never in the way these guys do. Excuse: “If you dont want to get drunk, go drink milk. Men drink alcohol and get drunk.” That is why Mallu men on ‘tour’ get regularly thrown out from Bangalore pubs.
Oh and to the government: deregulation helps. It teaches people how to drink responsibly. kudos to the govet. of Karnataka for that.
on June 27, 2010
at 6:47 am
Oh, and good post. as always. keep typing!
on July 20, 2010
at 3:41 pm
Saipe!
You have said it. Drinking is a problem for many Keralites whether they live in Kerala or elsewhere. They would have been drinking “to the maximum” if it were not for the rule of law in most other “responsibly drinking” states of the world.
I know friends and relatives who have succumbed to the bottle and died prematurely leaving behind hapless spouses and children.
P.S. In developed countries such as the USA, drug abuse (alcohol included) is a major health issue.
on July 25, 2010
at 9:32 am
Yeah, deregulation would surely be of benefit. That and better education, and more transparent policy all round. Ha! While we’re at it, let’s have a fully sustainable colony on the moon.
What I’m understanding is that in Kerala, most things that are generally viewed as socially undesirable – excess drinking, polyamory, drug use etc – are very much done, but only surreptitiously. I think that secrecy might be the root of most problems.
on August 21, 2010
at 5:30 am
I totally agree with you Morris.Been to a couple of watering holes on MG road Ernakulam.At 8pm on a typical day,the place would be jam packed.Difficult to get a seat.You are given your drink with the gooseberry pickle to bite.Strange but good combo to beat the bitterness,
on August 29, 2010
at 4:21 pm
Ask UB and other distellieries to stop its liquor production.Most of the distellieries are situated outside the state of Kerala. Will the Karnataka Gov and other state gov take initiative to do something about it. We just cannote put the blame on one state or mallus for consumption of alcohol. Other states are equally responsible for this.
on August 30, 2010
at 11:41 am
@Chandrashekar, that gooseberry pickle sure is intriguing. Took a long time for me to appreciate it. It definitely goes well with a Kingfisher.
@Abhijith, interesting perspective, but I think your suggestion is a little extreme – that would mean no liquor of any kind for anyone, effectively tarring the whole of society with the ‘irresponsible drunkard’ brush. I find that repression of this sort almost always leads to greater problems.
on August 30, 2010
at 1:45 pm
@Abhijith, “Adhikamaayaal amruthum visham,” is a popular Malayalam adage. Moderation, not regulation or prohibition, is the answer to abuse of alcohol or other drugs.
on March 16, 2011
at 12:44 am
I’m not surprised by the news.I don’t mind drinking.But then misbehavior and addiction is something people need to work out on.Why can’t government increase the taxes on alcohol and cigarettes so that people definitely would have to go a bit controlled?In kerala,I’m not very sure this would work as people might end up borrowing money and drinking.That would be worse.
on May 12, 2011
at 3:18 am
Nice post. It is said that in Kerala, the only thing that does no wobble after 6 PM is Gandhi’s status. On a separate note, kerala state govt. receives the biggest chunk of revenue in forms of tax from consumption of liquor. So from their perspective it will be very difficult for them to give up this cash-cow as there are very few other avenues where you can mop up such large revenues.
on June 1, 2011
at 8:01 am
Drinking and buying lottery tickets and tying and untying the ‘lungi’/'mundu’. My parents were born in that state. I am glad they left it for better avenues.
on June 13, 2011
at 3:55 pm
As a Malayali who takes a drink occasionally I found your article extremely interesting. I think you’ve understood the Malayali psyche – a great escapist psyche!
on June 13, 2011
at 4:02 pm
Interesting article. But it sounds like any UK town on any day of the week! I think the Keralites must have picked it up from the British.
You want to talk about binge drinking go to any British town centre on a saturday night – now that’s real drinking!
on June 13, 2011
at 4:11 pm
Forgot to mention – especially the women!
on August 13, 2011
at 2:40 am
RAIN OR SHINE WE SHALL HAVE OUR WINE, seems to be motto of Malayalis, if you research the roots, than it is obviously fuelled by NRI funds Lol
on September 12, 2011
at 11:23 am
Okey,to all drunkards keralites!How many of you are having Liver problems and abusing your wife for drinking?
on September 15, 2011
at 7:25 am
Hey Dude,
It was a brilliant read, great to see a guy from outside understand our general unwritten culture.
Me not a drinker though!!:)
on September 21, 2011
at 3:22 am
Not everyone in Kerala drinks. But with Kerala’s drinking repute, people outside find it surprising when one says ‘I am from Kerala’ and ‘I don’t drink’ in the same sentence.
Pretty accurate picture posted here.
on September 22, 2011
at 2:02 pm
I know a keralite who works in the gulf for 6 months a year- well paid. Spend the rest of the 6 months back in kerala drinking with friends almost throughout the day.
When we have people like this, we will never lose that rank.
on September 27, 2011
at 5:11 pm
See, the latest release connects the death-toll by weil’s disease and alcoholism. Keralites will be the martyrs of alcoholism in the near future.
on September 27, 2011
at 6:22 pm
I have a question…Why we should call ‘Kerala’ a god’s own country?god doesn’t stay where most of ppl are in to drinking too much.second even they says it’s god’s own country then why they don’t want to live there and always looking to go to the foreign country…?
on October 2, 2011
at 2:18 pm
Very well written and does bring to fore, the cultural mores of a place. As you rightly said, who has the right to judge whom?
But did I connect with this post? Totally. Today I even referred to this post – http://anish-whatalife.blogspot.com/2011/10/father-is-dead.html
on November 3, 2011
at 5:45 am
why this people blame always kerala people.answer—- because this people highly qualified and well educated. not same – bihar, up, rajesthan, and other northern state, so don’t angry with kerala people. try to overtake to kerala. okay
on November 4, 2011
at 11:29 am
@jovin..that’s self proclaimed statement.I have seen many of your so called ‘Well educated’ ppl and hear them speaking ‘very good’ yeenglish.None of you have actually good vocal-berry when its comes to speak good English.if you know what does that means.
on January 6, 2012
at 12:07 pm
This data is not correct because liquor distrinbution is handling by kerala govt only.but in other states like delhi it is more than the actual count.
on February 1, 2012
at 5:16 am
Donot blame the habit of drinking in Kerala. In Kerala the only entertainment available is drinking. It is a means of revenue for everyone – The Government is getting revenue to pay off the salary for employees, the lawmakers are getting their share from vendors, the law-enforcers get their daily buck. The Bar licence fee in Kerala is 2.25 Million Rupees every year. Malayalees spend 7500 Crores every year for drinking, another 1500 Crores as fines and penalties and 3000 Crores on medicines and treatments. Alcohol is the life-blood of Kerala economy.